Who's Paying? Reflections on Affordable Travel While Wandering Georgia
Since I left the United States in April, I’ve been strict about my finances. I’ve kept a spreadsheet, updated monthly, tracking every penny spent. I don’t spend more than I have to, and if there is a way to do something without spending money, I do it. In general, I traded a lifestyle focused on maximizing my income for one focused on minimizing my expenses. While this was a step forward, it was also a trap.
Accommodation in Georgia
Even with a tight budget by US standards, there are plenty of options for accommodation in Georgia. While searching online for a place to stay in the Lesser Caucasus Mountains near Batumi, I found a family-run guesthouse in the village of Kveda Chkhutuneti offering a room and breakfast for 40 GEL (15 USD). I booked the stay for five nights. I was excited to get out of the city, have my own space, and, importantly, come under budget.
Finding the bus to Chkhutuneti was a challenge. I arrived at the Batumi bus station in the morning and used Google Translate to ask the locals for help. It’s especially difficult to identify the correct bus when the destination is written in a different alphabet.
In the afternoon, I managed to get on a minibus that brought me close enough to my destination. According to the map, the guesthouse was at the end of a mountain road, 1,000 ft (ca. 305 m) above the bus station. I got confirmation from locals that I was heading in the right direction, so I made the climb.
When I finally arrived, I met the owner and she showed me my room.
The Room
The room was better than expected. I would have been content with a dark, dusty room and an old, rickety bed—just to have the space to myself for $15. Instead, I found a clean, bright room with a comfortable bed and a mountain view.
The Food
Having stayed at guesthouses before, I knew to leave a good portion of my budget for food. When you’re in such a remote place, with the nearest grocery store miles away, it’s hard to say no to a home-cooked meal. They offered me dinner for 30 GEL (11 USD), which I accepted.
When I saw the table covered in dishes of food, I was a bit confused. While there was enough food to feed an entire family, there was only one plate. I asked if anyone else was coming, and they just said, “Eat! Eat!” I ate an incredible amount, but barely made a dent in what was on the table.
Of course, the included breakfast was a personal buffet as well.
With all this food for dinner and breakfast, I went the entire week without lunch and never went hungry.
The Investigation
These luxuries, for a total of $26/day, prompted an investigation.
My initial concern was wasted food. With each meal, I analyzed the dishes. Were these reused from the last meal? Was I getting leftovers from the other guests? What I ended up finding was this:
They had some consistent dishes with every meal: potatoes, tomato and cucumber, bread, butter and jam, and cheese. The leftovers of these would reappear in following meals. They also had some new dishes with each meal, which would stay around for a few meals.
They prepared a buffet of food, sharing it among guests and across meals. I suspect the leftovers were eaten by the family, and not too much went to waste. Problem solved.
Digging Deeper
Even after accounting for the food, things still didn’t add up. While I’ve spent less than $26 a day before, I’ve never received so much service with that budget. Usually, the cheaper the stay, the less labor would be involved. At this price and amount of service, this was a clear outlier.
So I paid more attention to the work being done. I watched three generations of women and girls run this guesthouse. There were two girls who did occasional tasks like bringing items to the table, fetching me for dinner, and mopping the floor. One woman mostly focused on the food, setting the table, and cleaning up after. The owner and her mother did everything: cooking, cleaning, and anything else that needed to be done.
Everyone pitched in without clocking in or out.
The conclusion was clear: it’s a family business that relies on unpaid or underpaid work from family members, including children. Because of this informal arrangement, the cost of labor is barely reflected in their prices.
Some quick research suggested this isn’t a one-off case.
- There is no meaningful minimum wage in Georgia.
- 34.4% of rural jobs were “informal” in 2024.
- Women in accommodation and food service earned an average of 1199.8 GEL (445.27 USD) per month in 2024, when employed formally.
Reference: Employment and Wages - National Statistics Office of Georgia
Reflection
Lowering my budget has enabled me to learn new skills, live more minimally, and have less environmental impact. But these benefits came from moving past consumerism—not from seeking out cheap labor. If my only goal is to minimize my own costs, without considering where those costs are shifted, I risk taking advantage of others.
Rather than falling into the trap of maximizing income or minimizing expenses, I want to be mindful of how I spend my money, its impact, and the hidden costs behind my purchases.
In this case, the right answer for me is to tip. I will pay what I think is fair, given my budget and extensive travel knowledge. While it took me a while to reach this simple conclusion, the mindful approach I took ensures this lesson will stay with me—and permanently change my goals as I travel.